Full sod installation
Whole-yard or full-section installs. Old turf and debris removed, ground graded and moistened, sod laid tight in a staggered pattern, then rolled and watered in for soil contact.

Bare, thin, or dead turf replaced with fresh sod. Beds cleaned up, reshaped, and planted so the front of your house looks finished. We prep the ground properly, because that's what decides whether new sod takes.
Sod fails for boring reasons. It gets laid over dead grass, on dry ground, with gaps between the pieces, and nobody tells the homeowner how much water it needs in the first two weeks. We do the unglamorous part: strip the old material, grade the area, moisten the soil, and set the pieces in a staggered brick pattern with the edges pushed tight together.
Landscaping work runs the same way. We'll tell you what will survive in the spot you're pointing at and what won't, then give you a flat price to do it. That covers bed reshaping and re-edging, removing tired plants, installing new shrubs and plants, and finishing with mulch. If you're selling a house or turning a rental, we can focus on the parts that show from the curb.
Landscaping & Sod
Whole-yard or full-section installs. Old turf and debris removed, ground graded and moistened, sod laid tight in a staggered pattern, then rolled and watered in for soil contact.
Dead spots from chinch bugs, dog traffic, shade, or a failed irrigation zone. We cut out the bad section and drop in matching sod so the repair blends instead of standing out.
Beds get redefined with a clean, deliberate edge and squared-off corners. Overgrown beds are cut back to a line that makes sense with the house instead of creeping into the lawn.
New shrubs, foundation plantings, accent plants, and small ornamentals set at the right depth and spaced for their mature size, not for how they look the day they go in.
Dead shrubs, overgrown foundation plants, and failed turf pulled out and hauled off. Nothing gets left in a pile at the curb for you to deal with later.
Fresh mulch spread two to three inches deep and pulled back off trunks and stems. That depth holds moisture and slows weeds without suffocating the plants you just paid for.
We come out, walk the area with you, and measure. You get a flat price covering material, labor, and haul-off, agreed before anything starts. On install day we clear and prep first, which is most of the work, then lay sod or set plants. Before we leave, we walk you through the watering schedule for the first two to three weeks, because that part is on you and it decides the outcome.
New sod has no root system yet. It is sitting on the soil, not in it. UF/IFAS guidance for St. Augustine is multiple short irrigations, five to ten minutes each, spread through the day for the first seven to ten days. For the next seven to ten days, water once daily with a quarter to a half inch. After that, drop to two or three times a week.
Two more things people get wrong. Don't mow it until the roots have pegged down, generally fourteen to twenty-one days, meaning you can't lift a piece without real force. And don't fertilize for thirty to sixty days. Sod is usually fertilized before harvest, and feeding a lawn with no roots just sends nutrients into the groundwater. Give it three to four weeks and it's an established lawn.
Floratam is the most widely used St. Augustine in Florida but has only fair shade tolerance and struggles under six hours of sun. If your yard is shaded, that matters more than price per pallet.
UF/IFAS advises planting warm-season grass during active growth and avoiding temperature extremes. In central Florida, that means steering clear of a cold snap or the hottest, driest stretch of summer if you have the option.
If chinch bugs, a dead sprinkler zone, or deep shade killed the last lawn, new sod will die the same way. We'll say so before you spend money on grass.
Trevor does a great job! Always professional, friendly, communicative, priced right, and takes pride in a job well done! I recommend him highly!Verified customer review, Facebook Read our reviews on Facebook
01
Routine mowing on a weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly schedule. Crisp edges along drives and walks, string trimming around beds and fences, hedge and shrub trimming, and every hard surface blown clean before we leave. Free estimate, flat price agreed before we start.
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Trimming and pruning for the trees around your house: limbs off the roof and driveway, clearance over walkways, palm frond cleanup, and storm-damaged branches removed. We prune selectively rather than topping. Full tree removal is available by quote, so ask and we'll take a look.
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Clean-outs for yards that have gotten away from you. Overgrown lot clearing, brush and vine removal, seasonal clean-ups, storm debris, and old mulch replaced with fresh. We cut it, drag it, load it, and haul it off, then blow the whole area clean.
See the detailsGive it time. New sod is fragile until it roots, and it isn't safe for play or heavy foot traffic right away. Light walking to move a sprinkler is fine. Wait roughly two to three weeks, until the pieces have pegged down and can't be lifted easily, before treating it like a normal lawn. Kids and dogs should stay off until then.
Yes. A lot of our sod work is patching, not whole yards. We cut out the dead sections, prep the soil underneath, and set matching sod so the seams disappear once it fills in. If the damage keeps coming back in the same place, we'll point at the likely cause first so you're not paying to replace the same patch twice.
We're a lawn and landscape company, not an irrigation contractor. We'll tell you if we see a head that isn't turning, a zone that isn't reaching, or coverage that won't support new sod, and we'll be straight about it before you buy grass. For the repair itself you'll want a licensed irrigation company. Ask us and we'll point you somewhere reasonable.
Usually the front. Fresh sod on the visible lawn, beds re-edged and mulched, tired shrubs pulled and replaced with a few healthy ones, and everything trimmed back off the walkway and windows. That reads as a maintained house in listing photos and at the first walk-up. We'll give you a flat price and tell you which items actually move the needle.
Yes. Laying sod on top of existing grass or debris is a common shortcut and it causes the new sod to sit high, dry out, and fail at the seams. Sod needs to go on bare, moist soil to make contact and root. Removal and haul-off of the old material is included in the price we quote you.

Call or text Trevor at 727-326-2276 for a free estimate. We'll measure, tell you what's realistic for the site, and give you one flat price.